Looking back, I spotted a large canoe directly behind us moving fast, trying to overtake us. It was still some distance away. Lee had a look at them. We decided to go for it.

We didn’t stand a chance but we paddled like madmen. Pulling hard, we shot across the water. That canoe behind us fell back a bit. But after a minute or two they had speeded up again. We knew we couldn’t win this game because, well, because there was no canoe race in this country that we could win. And we were clearly outclassed: Five paddlers standing erect on the gunnels, all stabbing the water as one with nine-foot-long paddles pointed at the ends like knives. Call them oars, more like.

Before long they were dead even with us. Covered with sweat, their black bodies worked like machines made of oiled wood and their muscles stood out sharp under their skin. 

“They want to board,” I said to Lee but looking back at them, Lee indicated that we would follow. Still they tried to board and we fended off furiously with our paddles. Passing us, the stern man grinned at me as we fell in behind, his filed teeth gleaming like tiny ivory daggers.

Ahead on the west bank was a village, a large one. The landing was all confusion. Hundreds of wide-eyed faces watched us arrive. Everywhere people were running down to the river. The boatmen tied up the canoes and got up on the dock. The stern man gave me a big grin.

"What happens now?” I whispered to Lee.

"We just have to show them that we're serious and that we know what we're doing. They're much more afraid of us than you think.”

Lee climbed out on the rough dock all business and the crowd fell back, cowering, amazed and afraid. 

"I think we better show them the laissez-passer,” I told Lee.

A tall thin youth appeared with some followers, walked right up to Lee and grasped him around the wrist, his thumb and forefinger touching to show that he was officially handcuffed.

"I arrest you in the name of the Revolution,” the youth said in French. Lee pushed him hard and he nearly fell over. He glowered and came back at him. "This time you'll land on the ground,” Lee told him. Wary, losing face fast, angry and confused, the youth held back. He raised his arm and pointed the way.

As Lee started going back toward the canoe, a roar went up from the crowd and they carried us forward in a human wave.